Getaway to Champagne :: Where bubbly begins and ends...

You can bet that while I'm sitting at my desk writing about one of my recent trips, I'm also sipping their most famous export. Of course I'm talking about Champagne, the lovely, bubbly, vibrant sparkling wine from Champagne, France. And though the idea of adding bubbles to wine may not have originated there (it was first done in Limoux around 1535), once a certain monk named Dom Perignon brought the m?thode Champenoise to the Champagne region, well, the rest is history. It was there in that cool, hilly region in the northeast of France that true bubbly was born.

For those who love Champers, Francophiles, and sophisticated travelers, Champagne is not only a sparkling sipper that can turn any gathering into a celebration, but also a colorful, vibrant, fascinating destination that's well worth exploring. With summer in full swing and autumn just around the corner, it also happens to be the perfect time to plan a trip to the region. Fares in the fall are much more reasonable than during high season (June-August), and it's only then that you can visit the vineyards in their full glory, see the grapes as they're being transformed from simple fruit into delicious bubbly, and even assist in the harvest of what may just become the Champagne you toast on a New Year's Eve down the road.

Champagne, France

Champagne is a historic province in the northeast of France, most of which now falls inside the current region of Champagne-Ardenne. About 100 miles from Paris, the region is home to the city of Reims, one of the most famous in French history. It was here that French kings were crowned- including Charles VII, in the company of Joan of Arc. Of course today the region is best known for it's number one export: Champagne, the sparkling wine they've produced since about 1700, and which is celebrated- and sipped at celebrations- around the world.

The Champagne-Ardenne region is located nearly at the northernmost limits of grape growing lands. The year-round cool temperatures make it difficult to get grapes to fully ripen. Luckily, nearby forests help maintain stable temperatures and keep soil moist, which allows the grapes to grow with a high level of acidity that actually helps in sparkling wine. Chalky soil also gives the grapes their distinct qualities, which are only found in this region.

Historically the region is important not simply for the fact that French kings were crowned here, but because the region was also at the crossroads of vital trade routes, and at the heart of the Hundred Years' War, the War of Religion (which concluded with the Edict of Nantes, granting religious freedom in France), and the Thirty Year War. As you might imagine, the resulting statues, gardens, and museums- as well as the vineyards and wine of course!- make the Champagne region an interesting tourist destination.

Champagne is incredibly beautiful in summer, and while the weather may be a bit warmer then, unless you're completely adverse to occasional autumnal breezes, I recommend going in the fall, especially around- or during- the harvest. The sun is usually shining, the grapes are ripe and ready to be harvested, and the energy among the people makes for an incredible experience. (That being said, I've also been to the region in the springtime and had a lovely time.)

Of course most people visit Champagne for the history and the wine, but don't overlook the region's other draws. Home to 19 museums, 16 theatres, 10 golf courses, and eight lakes (including Lake-Der-Chantecoq, the largest man-made lake in Europe), you're definitely not going to get bored. The region is increasingly becoming known for its cuisine as well, while the ancient houses in Troyes, famous walls in Langres, and churches and cathedrals galore are also big draws. For outdoor enthusiasts, the region holds some magnificent forests and lakes where you can enjoy hiking, biking, climbing and loads of water sports.

Getting There

To get to the Champagne region, you'll want to fly into Paris on one of the major US or international carriers (depending on where you're coming from; check www.ZipToGayTravel.com for best prices). I always fly Air France because their service, meals, and flight attendants' uniforms are fabulous. (OK, so their prices are also very competitive and they offer good flight times too, but really, it's all about their style!) From Paris you can hop on the TGV (high speed train) and in less than an hour be in Reims, the center of the region, ready to rock-and-roll... or at least toast your arrival with a glass of great bubbly!

Of course you could also rent a car in Paris and drive to Reims, which gives you the advantage of being able to explore the region on your own and visit the exact wineries you're interested in. Unless you've got a completely dedicated designated driver, however, I recommend taking the train to Reims and taking cabs to nearby Champagne houses and jumping on board organized tours for the others. It's much safer and you'll end up having a lot more fun.

There are at least a dozen companies in Champagne- most based in Reims- that offer tours to the nearby Champagne houses and vineyards, as well as area museums, churches and other places of interest. Since individual tastes vary greatly, I recommend looking online to see which tour company is best for you. A great place to start is the France Guide from the French Tourism Office, which gives you all the basic info on the region at a glance and provides links to the local tourism boards for the cities and towns of the region. They also have suggested itineraries, information on annual events, and downloadable brochures as well- including one dedicated to LGBT travel. Of course the Champagne-Ardenne Regional Tourism Office also offers much of the same, as well as listings of hotels, restaurants, and places of interest by town. Alternatively, once you book your hotel you can make contact with the concierge or local staff and ask them for information on tours; oftentimes they will not only be able to make the reservations for you, but also get you discounted rates.

For most people, staying in Reims and taking day-trips to vineyards and houses- as well as neighboring towns, villages, museums, etc.- makes the most sense. The city is well located, central, and offers the most sophisticated hotels, restaurants, shops, etc. Having said that, if you're staying in the region a week or more and enjoy French history and/or traditional towns, you may want to consider staying a few nights at a B&B or small family owned inn in one of the neighboring towns or villages, which gives you a unique way to see France. The France Guide lists numerous small accommodations around the region.

Reims :: Small city, big style

Reims is teaming with history and you need simply walk down the streets to run into it. From the Place Royale (with its statue of Louis XV) to the Place Cardinal-Lu?on (where Joan of Arc sits on her horse), the city is a treasure trove of history. Place Drouet d'Erlon is the heart of most nightlife, including the bars and restaurants, as well as plenty of fountains and statues. During the summer it's normally packed with people enjoying the sun- and perhaps an ap?ro!

Don't miss the Mars Gate- one of four Roman gates that date back to the 3rd or 4th centuries- or the famous Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Palace of Tau (now a museum filled with the royal wardrobe, statues, and treasures from the cathedral), the St. Remi Basilica, and the numerous forts in the vicinity should also be on your must-see list.

Where to stay

I stayed at the Hotel Mercure Cath?drale, a nice, fairly standard 3-star hotel that's recently been updated and offers everything you'd expect at a moderate hotel. Its best selling point is its location, which is just a few blocks away from the main square and pedestrian shopping/dining area; you're close enough to walk anywhere in the city without getting any of the noise.

Having said that, I also stopped by the Hotel de la Paix, which is in fact in the middle of it all, but which is also fabulously retro-mod, beautifully designed, and definitely the place to be. This is a moderately priced design hotel at its best; if for some reason you can't stay here, at least stop for a (Champagne) cocktail at the bar, which- like the rest of the hotel- is full of bright colors and designer furniture. The restaurant is also divine; imagine a gloriously updated 50s diner with a stylish and inviting feel. Highly recommended.

Restaurants

Restaurant choices are diverse and varied, and you won't have a hard time finding good food. If you're looking for a restaurant with a famous Michelin Star, Foch (Blvd. General Leclerq) is fabulous; just don't forget your credit card. Le Paysan (16 rue de Fismes) offers traditional "peasant" dishes in a rustic surrounding, and they couldn't be nicer! Le Males a Bar Caf? (see note below) serves tapas in the evening and brunch on Sundays.

I also highly recommend Le Mill?naire (4-6 rue Bertin); the food is excellent, the presentation gorgeous, and the prices won't knock you out. Finally, if you're craving something non-French, Matsuri offers Nouvelle Japanese, including take-out and delivery.

Bars

There are a few gay bars in Reims, including Lesbigays Caf? (89 rue Libergier; near the cathedral, opposite the canal) and Le Male a Bar Caf? (12 rue de Mars, next to the town hall). You'll find the patrons friendly, the drinks inexpensive, and they'll also be able to tell you about anything else that might be going on in town while you're there.

Clubs

Les Lilas (75 rue de Courcelles; opens at 11pm) is Reims' sole gay club, although if you talk to the patrons at one of the bars you may find that various other clubs host gay (or mixed) nights throughout the week. Locations tend to change, so you'll want to ask locally. (Your concierge should also be able to point you in the right direction...)

Houses and vineyards and tastings- oh my!

There are hundreds of Champagne houses in the region, so try as you might, you're not going to see them all. Most of the larger houses offer tours and tastings, although hours may vary based on the season, so if you're going on your own definitely check their website or call before visiting. Tours from local companies offer the benefits of guaranteed access, a (sober) driver who knows the area, and usually a great deal as well. Alternatives to group tours include private tours set up by local companies or your concierge, and of course going solo in a rental car.

I suggest doing no more than two visits to vineyards and/or houses per day; this gives you time to also explore museums, monuments, and local towns and villages, which have a charm that's often seemingly plucked from a classic French film. Make sure to see a mix of Champagne houses; don't skip the family-run houses just because the larger ones have excellent marketing campaigns. These smaller places give you an opportunity to talk to the people who do everything from picking the grapes to blending the wine, and you'll often learn much more about the product- and the process- than on large group tours. If you've got a favorite Champagne (or three!), definitely put them on your list, but be forewarned: while their gift shop may offer beautiful bottles you've never seen before, you can usually find the same thing in a local wine shop for much less.

The best place to start your search for houses you'd like to visit is the Comit? Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne, the official website for Champagne wines. They offer tons of information on the houses, tours, tastings and more.

You can also find information on Champagne houses and caves on the local city sites, including the Reim's Chamber of Commerce, the official site for the city of Epernay, etc.

Before visiting Champagne houses or doing a tasting, it helps if you know a bit about bubbly. Some basic background knowledge will not only help you appreciate what you're drinking, it might also impress your friends- and perhaps your tour guide (which can often lead to them opening a special bottle not normally offered to the public). For some basics, check out Champagne :: A drink like none other in the Food & Drink section.

The following list of Champagne Houses is clearly not complete, but rather a short-list of places I've visited and recommend. Each is unique, and offers something interesting... as well as fabulous bubbly!

Ruinart

Ruinart is one of the best Champagnes that you've likely never heard of. A famous and highly respected house in France (they're known for their Chardonnay grapes), they're the oldest in Reims- founded in 1729- and produce all Grand Cru.

The caves at Ruinart are incredible. They were dug by the Romans in the 4th century A.D., and before being used to store and age Champagne, they've (at various times) been used by smugglers, to house chi-chi dinners and receptions, and as shelters during WWI. Now the dimly lit series of corridors- more than five miles of them- and caves hold tens of thousands of bottles arranged in huge stacks along the walls.

Ruinart is located at 4 Rue des Crayeres, in Reims. A tour- including a glass of fabulous Champagne- runs about $25; you'll want to make an appointment, as this house is quite popular.

The Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage 96 is one of my favorite Champagnes; it equals- or beats- Dom P. any day. With flavors that include a bit of citrus, some toasted bread, a touch of creaminess, and a distinct mineral feel, it's truly fabulous, and perfect for a party.

Pommery

Unless you've been hiding on a deserted island somewhere, you've heard of the house of Pommery. Famous in the states for their flashy little bottles of POP, in fact they offer a multitude of Champagne styles with a flair unmatched in the industry.

Like their neighbor down the street (Veuve Clicqot), Pommery was also run by a widow (veuve means widow in French), though it's now owned by a French conglomerate, which helps to explain why it's become such a large tourist attraction. The setting is incredible however, and well worth a visit. On 125 acres sits an Elizabethan style castle with more than 11 miles of caves, cellars, and chalk pits that hold more than 20 million bottles at any one time. Aside from Champagne, the caves are also home to modern art exhibits that can range from the amusing to the truly bizarre.

Pommery is open daily year-round except for a few holidays. Tours start around $15, and private tours are also available. See their website for more details.

I love Pommery's Louise Ros? 92; it's soft yet crisp, with a tanginess that excites the tongue.

D. Henriet-Bazin

One of the smallest houses in the region, Champagne D. Henriet-Bazin produces just 60,000 bottles each year, and everything is done in-house... literally, in the basement! Following in her family's footsteps, Vigneron Marie-Noel represents four generations of winemakers and also happens to be incredibly sweet and a wonderful host. They produce eight cuv?es, one vintage Grand-Cru, and one vintage Premier-Cru. They also offer visits, but unless you speak French you'll want to make arrangements through a local company or your concierge as their website is seulement en Fran?ais.

Champagne D. Henriet-Bazin's Blanc de Blanc Brut Premier-Cru is incredibly fresh, crisp and very drinkable with a bit of apricot, tart apple, and citrus flavors- it's very juicy! I also love their Blanc de Noir Grand-Cru; it's a touch stronger (which makes it excellent for meals), with just a hint of mint and herb aromas. Very unique!

Roger Coulon

Champagne Roger Coulon is also a family house; in fact they've been growers for 8 generations- since 1806. Eric and Isabelle Coulon, the current Recoltants-manipulants (grower-producers), manage the daily business and the wine making process from beginning to end. The house produces 95,000 bottles a year, and it's one of the few smaller houses that export to the U.S.

The Roger Coulon Grand Reserve is an absolute must. It's so light, fresh and crisp- with hints of apple and a touch of chalk- that you'll think you're drinking the essence of summer. For connoisseurs, the Grand Reserve Vintage 1990 is a bit deeper with a more rounded, fruit-heavy flavor. It's golden, with hints of white flower as it warms, and it's very easy on the mouth. Finally, the Blanc de Noir is unusual because it's unfiltered, natural, and fab-u-lous. It's smooth and crisp at the same time, with an undertone of apple peel.

Champagne Duval-Leroy

Champagne Duval-Leroy is only open by appointment, but well worth making that phone call or sending an email. They're located in Vertus, a town that's a bit south of Epernay, which is itself just south of Reims. The house was founded in 1859, and although considered one of the "big houses" (they produce between 5-6 million bottles/year), it's still family owned.

Carol Duval-Leroy, the current head of the house, was recently awarded the insignia of Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, an incredibly prestigious award indicative of the way she runs things.

While I enjoyed all of the Duval-Leroy Champagnes, there are three that stand out: the Vintage 98 (all Chardonnay), the Femme, and the Ros?. The 98 is very fruity with a bit of a bite, partly due to the swish of oak- the result of spending six months in barrels. It makes for a perfect ap?ratif and also pairs excellently with a good hard cheese (Comt? preferably). The Femme (I had the 96, an incredibly good year for Champagne) is fun because of its effervescent feel and hint of lemon and honey; it also comes in a special bottle. My favorite however, is Champagne Duval-Leroy's Ros?, which I intend to serve at my wedding. It's young, fresh and fruity, but not too sweet (remind you of anyone?); superb for toasting. (The 86 is also incredible- one of the best I've had- but good luck finding it...)

Jacquesson

Another relatively unknown house, Champagne Jacquesson is located in the town of Dizy, just north of Epernay. It's run by two brothers, who took over after their father died, having bought it from an old woman. (The stories behind the Champagne houses are always colorful, and only add to the charm of the vineyards... especially if shared over a nice glass of bubbly!)

A relatively small house, Jacquesson produces about 350,000 bottles/year, all from Premier- or Grand-Cru grapes, all Extra-Brut, and all Non-Vintage (NV). They're known for managing their yield to maintain the highest quality grapes rather than attempting to produce as much Champagne as possible. They're also known for producing "the best every year, rather than the exact same wine every year," which allows you to taste the terroir and recognize the differences in the growing conditions year-to-year.

Philipponnat

Located in the Mareuil-sur-Ay area, the Philipponnat family has been making wine since 1849, with the Champagne Philipponnat house officially established in 1910. They only use the first pressing of the grapes, and never filter. The grape juice goes from the press to small oak barrels (which are bought in Bordeaux after being used twice) for the first fermentation, then blended in tanks. The house produces about 700,000 bottles/year, and Vintage bottles are still rotated by hand!

Philipponnat's Grand Blanc 1999 is beautiful and uncomplicated; slightly perfumed, but light and crisp with a touch of acidity. It also has a unique- and delightful- aftertaste. The 1999 Reserve Vintage is incredible, albeit not easy to come by. If you do find some, scoop it up, but save it for a few years as the fruit-forward flavors will continue to develop.

Practical information

The Champagne region of France is incredibly beautiful and offers visitors the opportunity to explore French history, culture and lifestyle in ways impossible in Paris or other large cities. It's easy to get to, the people are friendly, and Reims even has gay nightlife!

Add a glass of Champagne and what more could you ask for!?!

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