New Dries Van Noten Designer Blends the Archive with a New Voice in Paris

Julian Klausner presented his first womenswear collection as creative director of Dries Van Noten Wednesday at the Opéra Garnier in Paris, a setting that reflected the historical influences woven throughout his designs.

The fall Paris Fashion Week show marked a new chapter for the Belgian house following Van Noten's departure last year after three decades at the helm.

Klausner, who had worked on the brand's womenswear since 2018, approached the collection with a balance of archival references and new interpretations.

Elements of 1930s tailoring were evident in sloping shoulders and vintage head caps, while draped gowns in floral devoré fabric brought a modern take to historical silhouettes. A metallic oversized suit adorned with silent foulard motifs reinforced an Art Deco influence, while an Obu belt with textured banding added an element of Eastern-inspired opulence.

Throughout the collection, Klausner maintained the brand's signature layering and textural contrasts, integrating structured tailoring with softer, more fluid elements.

Yet, at times, the collection reflected the challenges of creative transition. A maximalist coat with an exaggerated silhouette skewed the proportions, making for a striking visual statement but one that risked overwhelming the model.

Some pieces felt exploratory rather than fully resolved, suggesting Klausner is still refining his perspective, balancing reverence for the house's legacy with the need to establish his own creative direction. The tension between continuity and evolution was evident throughout, as he tested the boundaries of familiar Dries Van Noten signatures.

Still, Klausner's foundation within the brand is clear. Dries Van Noten was known for unexpected combinations and an evolving aesthetic that shifted from season to season, and Klausner has expressed his intent to continue in that spirit. His first ready-to-wear collection demonstrated a strong understanding of the house's codes, setting the stage for future refinement.

If this women's debut is any indication, Klausner is well-positioned to build upon its legacy.