Raising the Bar: Latest Spirits From NYCWFF
Wandering the floor at the Food Network and Cooking Channel New York City Wine & Food Festival presented by FOOD & WINE was a bit like a cross between a Cinco de Mayo fiesta and a sorority rush party. The crush of samplers crowded the whiskey stations, vodka and small-batch gin were given a run by some new Mexican brews in town, and a few sweet European ap�rtifs and digestifs seemed to be making a resurgence.
Here are a few highlights to look for at your friendly neighborhood bar and booze shop:
Made in the USA
American-made standby Bourbon whiskey is typically made from corn, often with grains like rye and barley, always aged in wooden barrels. Some names to watch:
Calumet Farms Bourbon Whiskey is the same Kentucky bluegrass, horse-racing Calumet Farms that has spawned two Triple Crown winners. The Bourbon is well-balanced, with soft notes of butterscotch, white pepper and brown sugar.
Bird Dog Whiskey offers a classic Kentucky Bourbon. And then it tarts it up with easy-to-mix infusions like peach, hot cinnamon, maple, apple, chocolate and blueberry.
It's not Bourbon, but The Real McCoy Rum is aged in American oak Bourbon barrels, giving it dark, caramel notes of oak and toasted coconut.
South of the Border
Campe�n Tequila is known for its soft, round, fruit forward taste profile.
Mezcal is technically not tequila, as it's made from espadin agave instead of blue agave. Sombra Mezcal and El Buho Mezcal are two to keep an eye out for.
Pisco, the South American distillate typically made from the muscat grape, is claimed by both Peru and Chile as a national treasure. A new name from Chile to look for is Capel.
Across the Pond
Gin's ancestral papa is Jolly Ol' England, but a host of new distilleries are popping up all over:
Aviation Gin is another West Coast brand, from Portland, Ore. Its traditional blend includes juniper, cardamom, lavender and dried sweet orange peel.
Distillery No. 209 makes its gins on Pier 50 in San Francisco, making it the world's only distillery built over water apparently. It's a citrus-forward gin with floral aromatics.
Sir Robin of Locksley Gin is small-batch made in Yorkshire and redolent of elderflower, dandelion and pink grapefruit.
From the Continent
These liquors are typically served before (ap�rtifs) or after (digestifs) the meal to aid digestion. They're also typically delicious, either alone or as part of another drink.
Lejay Cassis first started making cr�me de cassis (black currants) in 1841. It's still the base for a favorite drink to start an evening: Kir Royal. 1 oz. Lejay Cassis + 4 oz. Champagne. It's also delightful with a dry white wine, and then it's just a Kir.
Pierre Ferrand Cognac is made with distilled from wine aged on its lees (the yeast cells that drop out during fermentation), then aged in Limousin oak barrels.
Cardenal Menoza ages its Spanish brandy in used sherry casks and offers selections ranging in age from 15 years to more than 50. Smooth, oaky, and slightly reminiscent of raisin-scented Pedro Ximenez sherry.
Dorda Double Chocolate Liquor is seriously chocolate paired with Poland's Chopin Rye Vodka. The Dorda Peppermint Patty Martini (2.5 oz. Dorda + .5 oz. Peppermint Schnapps) is a perfect liquid dessert. Garnish with shaved chocolate.
Ramazzotti is an Amaro distillate in the bitters category, which goes along with many Italian liquors. Made with 33 aromatic plants and fruits, its main flavor is refreshing orange.
As new producers pop up and seek worldwide distribution, the global spirits market tastes better than ever.
Laura Grimmer is a private chef and trained sommelier based in New York.
